Audio Driver?

[Gabe]

That's definitely weird. I've never heard of anything like that. I know that sometimes USB 3 devices plugged into USB 3 ports can interfere with wireless signals, but I wonder if the network card is throwing off some kind of signal that's causing problems with the monitor, even though it's a very different scenario. I discovered this by accident, one day plugging a USB 3 flash drive into a USB 3 port, and my wireless mouse immediately started having issues. I subsequently found that this is a known issue that can happen, so I now keep the wireless dongle for my Logitech mouse and keyboard about three feet away from the unit with a USB extension cable.

Again, I know it's a VERY different scenario, but just for a test, and if you have a longer HDMI cable, or even enough slack in the one you're currently using, try moving either the monitor further away from the S1 or the S1 further away from the monitor, and see if the issue lessens or even disappears.

As for the audio issue, I contacted barry last night, and I just sent him a recording of the issue. I couldn't figure out how to use the XBox Game Bar built into Windows to record audio only, so it's a video with audio. I left it on the Home screen of my System Shock 2 game, but you can clearly hear the anomaly about once ever second. The humming is from the game itself.

[rrredlin]

ok this is what ive done......
moved the PC bout 4 foot from monitor, then enabled the enternal wifi6. rebooted. got flashing back and the beap/buzz!!!

moved the pc back to next of monitor, disbled the enternal wifi6, and enabled the wifi5 dongle, reboted. lost the flshing @100 mhz and no beap/buzz, plus my downlod speed are damn near 200 mbps. with the built in one i couldnt beat 35 mbps!

Screenshot 2024-12-11 221926.png (29.22 KiB) Viewed 1452 times

so ima gonna say this enternal wifi6 is wacked, no idea if a driver update can fix all that.

thanks

[rrredlin]

So i downloaded the driver booster, and subd for a yr, it found 18 mising updates, 3 of mine were listed to be known faulty, and an update including the wifi 6 driver. so ill report back once this is done..


update

sadly, the internal wifi6 still made my screen flash on and off every 10-15 sec, when set @100 mhz. I didnt have the beap/buzz, just light static. speed were still low, lower i pay for! got up to 42 mbps, so some improvement.

went back to the wifi5 dongle and screen was good, download speed over 150mbps, cant complian on that.

I read one of posts about the win 11 pro vs the win 11 home. i have no idea what the product key is here, it reads that its digital and tied to my microsoft account, but it is not.
I think thats a huge issue, they already want mine PC back due to a dead line of pixels in my tft screen.
full cash refund, IDK though, i like this mini PC, and i wanted the N97 bacause it clocks higher then the n95 or n100. i already ordered an NGFF 1 tb for the open slot! i put a ton of stuff on here in lil over the week i got it. I wont do this all over again. just venting now lol. sorry.

[Gabe]

I read one of posts about the win 11 pro vs the win 11 home. i have no idea what the product key is here, it reads that its digital and tied to my microsoft account, but it is not.

Are you sure? If you have been signed into your Microsoft Account at any point the Activation will be logged there. It's not done in a way that you'll be able to find the Product Key listed somewhere in your account, but only that the particular computer with the Digital Activation will be logged there.

It's also logged on Microsoft's Activation servers.

For reference, you can find the Product Key on the unit in a couple of different ways. In the following, if method #1 doesn't show it, go to method #3.

https://www.techrepublic.com/article/fi ... oduct-key/

As for the problems, I'm not really sure what to tell you. For me personally, it would bug me to the point that I'd probably send it back for the refund. Then either get another one through Amazon or even wait for a sale and get it a bit cheaper.

I'm still talking to barry about the audio issue. I'm going to try a few things.

[Gabe]

I'm about ready to give up.

Today I turned on my S1 to begin the steps barry suggested to diagnose the issue. And the sound wasn't there. I then connected my T8 Plus and started it, and the sound wasn't there.

There's no problem more frustrating to diagnose than one that's intermittent. After thinking about it for a while, the only guess I have, at least at this point, is that the problem is triggered by heat. When the unit is cold, it's not there. When it's warm after running for a while, it starts. Again, that's just a guess by what's currently happening, but only a guess about when it's triggered, not what's actually causing it.

[rrredlin]

OMG bro ima so with you , that driver booster removed some of my start up apps, oh the tft program! must have took them out the regs, i been at this for over an hour, cant get it to open on start, and i put it in the start up.

so i tried to do a restore, since i made one once this all started. i must be daft, i reset the pc to older versoin instead! i been doing updates now....

I installed FXSound, then updated it. so far my sound has been awesome, ever since i started useing the wifi5 dongle. did you atlest try to disable your wifi and then mess with the sound?

IDK maybe your right, send it back. this lil guy needs alot of work, ima just not that guy lol.

thanks for your help

[rrredlin]

I'm about ready to give up.

So this mini is purring; just for some reason, I cannot get the TFT tool to start with Windows or the RGB setting app. I've placed them in both All Users and Me as the only user startup folders . I made sure they both run as admin. I mean, it is remembering my custom settings. Just won't open with startup , and it was before Driver Boosters; I got screwed there. There goes $ 22 for a year's subscription , hahah!

To confirm I corrected my issues like this ..... fixed my beep/buzzing and flashing screen when @ 100 mhz and low internet connection speeds by disabling the built - in Wi - Fi 6 and using an external Wi-Fi 5 dongle . I will buy a Wi-Fi 6 USB Dongle any min.

FXSound works well as an EQ/booster.

I spent a lot of time troubleshooting and repairing this little guy, and that is quite an accomplishment! Hahaha. I'm not so sure I'd want to repeat all that ever again , lol. The dead pixel line isn't so bad ; it just cuts off the very bottom of the text . I don't read that anyway; just the numbers are important. A new one would only have the same hardwear issue with the Wi-Fi 6. mine is fixed and im hppy bout it. Big bummer on the Wi-Fi ,but not a deal breaker now.

I thank you for your time and support.

[Gabe]

You may need to set up tasks to run the TFT and RGB using the Task Scheduler. I've never done it with the RGB, but with the TFT I set up a Task to run it "When I log on" and to "Run with highest privileges". Set it up as a Basic Task first (Create Basic Task). This way it makes it easy to select the TFT program, which if you ran the bat file to install it, should be located in "C:\Program Files\CYX_TftTool". Then, when you've completed the setup, click on the Task Schedule Library, right click on the task you just created, then click Properties. Then make sure that both "Run only when user is logged on" and "Run with highest privileges" are checked. When this is done, restart the computer, and the LCD panel program should automatically run on startup.

You may want to make sure you have the latest version of the TFT program as well.

[rrredlin]

putting those on task worked well, thank you.

Just been loooking on temu to buy a wi-fi 6 usb dongle. lol

let you know if that works as well.

[Gabe]

This is driving me bonkers. The sound reappeared on my S1 tonight. So I decided to reinstall W11 23H2. Not the factory system from here, but a clean install. I have a feeling the sound problem isn't going to show up in 23H2.

And being that the second m.2 slot is SATA only, I'm going to install an SATA drive in that slot, then install W11 24H2 on it. This way I can just choose which one to boot to on startup rather than having to physically change the drives in order to go back and forth between 23H2 and 24H2. It'll make it a lot easier for troubleshooting purposes going forward.